Temunah Tuesday!

Due to popular demand,I will be doing one post a week of pictures. And I'm calling it "temunah tuesday" - or "picture tuesday". I hope you enjoy!

I stood in the Old City at the Jaffa gate while taking this picture- that glass cone structure is a synagogue at my university where they hold High Holy Day services- that view is not too shabby.

This is my roommate, Lauren dressed up in her best frum attire for shabbat at the orthodox shul

look closely at the air freshener hanging from the mirror. yup. that's an American flag Christmas tree air freshener in an Israeli cab.

Tag, you're it!

one of my favorite things about Israel is the graffiti. Yes, I realize that may sound very weird especially if you live in a graffiti heavy area of the US. But the graffiti in Israel is very different- can often be offensive, and also quite hilarious. I think these photos mostly speak for themselves, but I'll add a few captions just to clarify.

This one is a little hard to read because of the glare, but it was taken on a construction wall near Ben Yehuda (aka america) Street. The top part reads "Jewish For Palestine" and the bottom reads "Obama loves and sleeps with Hamas and Hezbullah". Enough said. I do have to say that from what I've heard b'rehovot (on the streets), Obama is pretty well liked.

HAHAHAHAHA. Enough said. and that's sharpie marker on marble, it's not going anywhere for a while.

This one is a bit tougher for me. For those of you who do not know, Goy basically is a non-Jew. Reform Judaism has a very small and difficult place in Israel. It is a common misconception among Americans that all Israelis are super religious, and that is definitely not the case. Reform Judaism is often seen by Israelis as "American Judaism" and it's really difficult to explain in Israel. Once I become more familiar with Reform (Progressive as it is called here), I will write a better post.

Pride in Jerusalem

Yesterday was a momentous day in Jerusalem- the Gay Pride Parade! Here's an article if you are interested in reading more- http://jta.org/news/article/2009/06/25/1006139/jerusalem-pride-parade-relatively-violence-free. For those of you in the states, a gay pride parade may be no big deal. However, in uber traditional Jerusalem, it is a very big deal. I am not sure how many years it has been going on, but I think it is about 5. The group of about 4,000 gathered in Liberty Bell Park, a 10 minute walk from my apartment. After about a half an hour rally, the group walked towards Independence Park; which is usually only a 10 minute walk, but with 4,000 people it took about an hour. In the park there was a stage for music, some tents set up with beer, water, and just general hanging out. It was my first Pride parade, but I have to say it was very tame but a wonderful experience. It was exciting and inspiring to be part of such a wonderful demonstration for human rights in one of the most traditional cities in the world. And I was proud to be marching with my fellow HUC Rabbinic, Cantorial, and Education students. Especially as we marched by HUC's campus near the old city which proudly displayed a sign offering blessings to all people- lesbian, gay, bi-sexual, transgender, straight, you name it. I felt proud to be walking through the streets of Jerusalem, which were blocked off with police tape and barricades, and lined with almsot 2,000 armed police officers and soldiers. And I was proud of the traditional community of Jerusalem for quietly allowing this demonstration to happen, whatever their reasons, because I think it is important to show the world that all humans have rights, no matter where they may live.



In other news- it's Shabbat! Tonight several of us went to a Modern Orthodox Synagogue. It was a truly wonderful experience, and I am excited to return for services soon. There was a mehitzah (a barrier between the men and women, because in traditional jewish practice, men and women do not pray together) which usually upsets me. however, this was a sheer mehitzah which was removed at parts during the service. And the men's and women's sides were equal size, and were equally packed. Also, men and women had equal parts in leading the service- which i thought was really progressive and cool. I didn't think I would, but I felt very comfortable at this service. The community was passionate, engaged, and welcoming, and it was a fun and spiritual shabbat experience. I left humming the niggunim (basically the tunes used for prayer) and they are still running through my head- the perfect shabbat background music.

B'ruchim Ha'baim l'yerushalayim! (Welcome to Jerusalem!)

I had a really wonderful opportunity to see some family in Jerusalem today. My mom's cousins (I would call them aunt and uncle...as all of my extended family is very close) are in town on a tour with their synagogue. I awoke this morning from a dream about family and friends back hoome, and was feeling quite homesick most of the day. I was so happy to get a call from Betsey and Brian that they were in town for the evening! I met up with them and had a delicious dinner in downtown Jerusalem. They are very much like my parents, and it was really nice to be with them and welcome them to the Holy Land for their first time. it is so fun to hear about first experiences with Israel.





I have had the opportunity to welcome both Cantor Schiff and Betsey and Brian- all for their first visits to Israel. I love hearing first impressions, experiences, and seeing the enthusiasm of a first time visitor. I think it is so easy for us (myself definitely) to forget about the holiness of this place. Also, it is easy to forget where we are in the world. I walk the streets, and as I am getting more comfortable here, I sometimes have to consciously remember where I am and how amazing this place is. Last year, while I was here on a Taglit Birthright trip (if you are Jewish, under 26, and haven't been to Israel- GO ON A TAGLIT TRIP!!!) we visited Masada. Our tour guide showed us a very good example that I often think of. He took a rock and surrounded it with 4 large rocks. The rock in the center represented Masada, and the outer rocks represented the Roman troops which planned to destroy the city and people of Masada. He then placed an even smaller rock in the center, with 11 large rocks surrounding it and explained that the small rock is modern Israel, and the large rocks represented the countries surrounding Israel that wish it to be destroyed. Considering its small geographic size, Israel is a strong, thriving, and inspirational place to live and I remind myself every day how incredibly lucky I am to be living here this year. Many people complain about the abrasiveness of Israelis- using the term "sabras" to explain their spikey exterior and sweet insides, like the sabra cactus (like a prickley pear for my arizonian friends). While I do agree that being pushed out of line by a 4 year old or elderly woman can be kind of jarring to an American, it speaks to the true strength of Israelis. To live in a place that is hated by so many nations in the world takes chutzpah. And yet Israelis are fearless. Living in constant fear is not an option here, and Israelis certainly live life to the fullest (maybe that's why they don't make their kids go to bed early!)



Ok I have one funny story to tell before I start studying for my Hebrew test tomorrow (yes, i know it's 11pm already). For the past 2 weeks it has been all Hebrew all the time. We spend about 6 hours a day in class, during which time the teacher speaks only Hebrew, and we speak only Hebrew. Then, we leave class and Hebrew is everywhere. Granted, we do not speak in Hebrew to each other (except for the occasional "lo tov" and "beseder" comment), but we are fully immersed in Hebrew here. Which is truly wonderful, and it is teaching me a lot. However, it is not doing great things for my English, and it has only been 2 weeks. I left a note with my cousins at their hotel today, and it took me several drafts. I pulled out a piece of paper from my Israeli notebook (aka rings are on the right side because books open the reverse way in Hebrew) and I began to write. Dear Betsey...However...it came out more like yesteb raed...right justified. as if i were writing in Hebrew. In that moment, I had completely forgotten how to write in English. and it has been 2 weeks. In my defense, I had just gotten out of class and i haven't writte anything in English on notebook paper for a very long time. I guess it is a good sign that I am thinking in Hebrew!

Well my friends, I know I promised a fun graffiti post- and I saw a really cool one tonight so I promise to make that post this weekend. I am off to start studying for my exam, and hopefully get to bed at a decent hour.

L'hitraot!

Sushi in Israel? Lama Lo? (why not?)

Warning- I am about to write the most boring blog post yet, but such is life as a student.

My second shabbat in Jerusalem was lovely. I went with some other HUC students to the Reform Synagogue by my apartment- Kol Haneshamah- and I actually understood more of the Hebrew than the week before, which was really exciting! I am beginning to understand more and more words in people's conversations (eavesdropping is totally ok if it's for educational purposes!) and I am trying to use more Hebrew when I'm out and about, although it is difficult when I look so American! maybe I should get rid the camera around my neck and neon fanny pack- just kidding! Anyways, back to the point of my story, after services we went to another HUC student apartment to have shabbat dinner. It was wonderful! Kelly, Carolan, and Andrew made a delicious salmon dinner and we pot-lucked the side dishes and it was so fun! Some people back home have been asking to see pictures of my friends here, so I've included one below! Carolan, Kelly, Lauren, and I on Ben Yehuda Street

Saturday, Kelly and I were expert greeters at HUC shabbat services. Fortunately we did not end up giving the tour we were planning on; which was a plus since we have been here for a week and only know one classroom and the restrooms! But we got to have parts in the service, which was exciting. Kelly got to read the prayer for our country (we were told that "our country" is different here! how crazy! sometimes it's so easy to forget we are in Israel!) and I dressed the Torah.

Sunday was another day at school. I am still getting used to being in class on Sundays, although it is really nice to be free on Fridays! We got our first tests back and I did really well, which was a nice confirmation that my Hebrew is getting better. Although Hebrew on paper is much different than Hebrew in person.

Sunday evening we went on a search for good sushi and japanese food in Jerusalem. Surprisingly, there are a lot of japanese restaurants here, which is great because I love sushi! We found a yummy restaurant in downtown Jerusalem. It is so nice to be able to order anything of the menu at a sushi restaurant, and not have to ask for no crab or shrimp or anything like that. Although there is a non-kosher restaurant down the street where you can have a bacon cheeseburger on shabbat, but it is definitely a minority.

i'm going to quit boring you all and get to studying for my Hebrew test! l'hitraot!

betach!

This has been such a great day, and it's only noon! I have about a billion blog posts planned, so get ready! In Jerusalem, there is no work or school on friday or saturday, so thursday night is the big party night. Ok let's be honest, every night is a big party night here. Most of the HUC Pre-Ulpan students went out last night to a bar on Ben Yehuda Street, which basically feels like America. everyone is speaking English, and they served us popcorn and american french fries (chips) and schnitzel (basically chicken nuggets). They also have notoriously bad beer in Israel, so I had an Irish stout. in Israel. awesome. While we were walking home at 12:30 am, there were still families with small children out on the streets and in the restaurants (which were all stilll open). I am amazed by how late children stay up here- and they all look so tired, i just want to tell their parents they need to sleep! But don't worry, I resist the temptation.

This morning I woke up at 6am (thank you jetlag) and my roommates and I headed to the kotel (Western Wall) and then to the Shuk.

This was my first trip to the Kotel since last summer. I have a lot of mixed feelings about the Kotel, but I can say that it is a moving experience to walk up to the wall and I am always taken aback by the sheer size and significance of the wall. As I was sitting there looking at the notes in the cracks, I had the realization that I am LIVING in Israel. I am not a tourist, I'm not just visiting for a short time, I dont have to cram in all of these experiences in a short time. I can go to the Kotel any day I want. and that is an incredible feeling.

After the Kotel, and a refreshing drink of fizzy bubbly, we went to the Shuk to get some food for Shabbat; and to experience once again the craziness of the shuk. I got a whole sak of potatoes for 1 shekel- that's about 25 cents. It is amazing to see all of the fresh fruit and vegetables and fish. Those of you who know me well will be shocked by the pictures of what I bought. fresh fish at the shuk

and this is the man cleaning up our fish! We are making salmon and potatoes for dinner!

And since last time I raved about the rugelach at Marzipan in the shuk- here are some amazing pastries from Marzipan. And fyi, the entire box was 20 shekels, which is about 5 dollars for warm tasty savory pastries. zeh deal tov!

I am headed out to take my Pre-Shabbat Nap! Shabbat Shalom Haverim!

6 days going on 30

I have been here now for 6 days, and it feels like much longer! I have had 3 days of Ulpan, and am starting to get into a routine. Wake up at 6. Putz around the apartment/ skype family and friends until 7:30. Leave for school/coffee at 7:45. Hebrew from 8:30-2. RELAX. Homework at some point when Im ready to think in Hebrew again. bed, and repeat. The last two days have not been too exciting, they are mostly filled with Hebrew classes and relaxing in the air conditioning.

Let me start with my Hebrew class. It is really fun, although by the end of the day it is difficult to focus on Hebrew! the 8 of us get along very well, and our teacher makes it fun. I can already tell that my Hebrew is improving just in the last 6 days. What makes it easier is that when we leave class, we are still surrounded by Hebrew! Which can be a good thing (like recognizing words that we learn in class on billboards, etc.) or a bad thing ( like buying sour cream instead of cheese because there is no English). We are starting to find good restaurants and foods here, and it's exciting to try new things that we don't have in the States! Here are some pictures of my roommates and I exploring the city and our new favorite places to eat! my roommates eating a yummy chocolate dessert at a delicious restaurant in the Mamilla mall near the Old City and HUC.

Tonight, I met up with Cantor Schiff from Beth Israel in Portland. She is here on her first visit to Israel, and it was fun hearing about her first experiences here! It was also great to be with an

American friend! just when I was beginning to feel a little homesick.

I will have a fun post soon about Israeli graffiti- keep an eye out for it!

l'hitraot!

First day of Ulpan!

Today was my first day in Hebrew Ulpan (an intensive Hebrew course that we will be in for the next two months before we start the hard stuff). My roommates and I were so excited to get to class that we were ready to leave the apartment a full hour before we needed to. My earliness was partly due to the fact that I once again got up at 4am wide awake and starving. I am looking forward to being over jetlag! We took a leisurely walk across the street to a yummy coffee shop (there are about 5 to choose from on our block- Portlanders, it's ok to be jealous although it's not quite as good as stumptown, but cafe Aroma does give you a piece of chocolate with your drink).


Our first day was very relaxed, which was a good way to get back into the student routine! We had orientation and then a few hours of Hebrew- compared with the 6 hours that we will be having for the rest of the Ulpan. yes, 6 hours a day of only Hebrew. not to mention the Hebrew we speak outside of class. Yesterday I heard an American speaking English on the street and it was oddly settling. This was the first time that our Pre-Ulpan class was together, which is 8 of the 49 students who will be in Israel this year. Already we have a great vibe and had a lot of fun in class. I took some pictures on the way to school, and one of me at the front gates- mostly for my mom who wanted to see me on my first day of "rabbi school"!


Me at the park on the way to school. the lions are usually spitting water but it was too early in the boker (morning).



And this is me at the front gate to my school! those circles are the school's insignia. HUC's Jerusalem campus is enormous and beautiful, and I will try to post a lot of pictures as I spend more time around campus. On our campus tour today we all were very excited to be studying in such close proximity to the Old City of Jerusalem. The campus is in a very inspiring location and I can already tell that this is going to be an incredible year.

Shabbat Shalom

things I love so far about being in Israel.

1. Friday- everyone saying "shabbat shalom".

2. fresh juice at the shuk.


this morning, thanks to jetlag, i woke up at 4am. Fortunately, this means I was awake for most of the evening time in America so I was able to talk to a bunch of people! which brings me to skype. I'd like to thank skype for making it easy to keep in touch with friends and family. it's amazing. even though we look like robots when the connection is bad.


after talking to friends and family for about 4 hours ( crazy i know, but thank you again skype for making it free) my roommate and I decided to head to the shuk. From what I've heard about the craziness of the pre-shabbat shuk, I was teriffied. crowds of loud, hungry, busy Israelis getting ready for Shabbat packed like sardines into aisles of fresh fruit, meat, and judaica tchotchke shops with the people who work the shops screaming in Hebrew something like "apricots for cheap! buy them now! you crazy people why aren't you buying my stuff?!"- no joke, some guy actually said that. I didn't get a chance to take a picture, but I found one on google that I put in here. which brings me to the best place I have found in Israel so far. Marzipan. for those of you who know Israel, you know Marzipan. best rugelach EVER. I also got some yummy savory pastries at marzipan, and i'm officially in love with the place. it's worth braving all the crazy israelis.

this is the shuk. with about 1/10th the amount of people that were actually there.



this is me eating the best rugelach in the world. thank you marzipan.


Tonight all of the HUC students went to services at Kol Haneshamah, a Reform synagogue (some would argue, THE Reform synagogue) in Jerusalem just down the street from my apartment. the service and community were fabulous. Most of the tunes were new, but I picked up on them quickly. and everyone there was very welcoming and excited to have a new group of HUC students.

it is getting very late here and i was on foot for about 6 straight hours today, so I am going to relax with my fresh challah and rugelach!

Shabbat Shalom!

In Jerusalem!

After 2 very long days of travel, I have finally made it to my apartment in Jerusalem! Today has felt like a week, and it's only 8pm! As soon as I arrived in J'lem my rommate and I walked to HUC to register and meet an older student for a tour. I registered on campus, got my israeli cell phone (call me!), and walked around campus a bit. To give you an idea...here is a picture of one of the views: that's the old city in the back-pictures really don't do it justice!

and here are a few shots taken on campus.

We got together with some other students and walked around the area surrounding campus, and then went into the old city. It was very surreal to be there just walking around, and not with a big tour group! We walked around for a few hours, until I hit the jetlag wall. I came back to the apartment and slept for a few hours, and now i feel much better! After my much needed nap, we headed to Talpiyot to go to "mega" the grocery store. Very original name.

I am still processing the fact that I am in Israel and will be here for the next year. It all seems very surreal at this point! I expect an upcoming post with more about that once it settles in. I will also be taking tons of pictures!

Love you all and talk with you soon!